Charm Weds Panache at Mexico Citys Casa Polanco

Whether you have a long weekend or better yet, a whole week, and you enjoy a walkable city with world class museums, fantastic restaurants, excellent shopping and head-spinning architecture, sprinkled with several verdant city parks, then Mexico City is waiting for your discovery or rediscovery.

With a population of about 22 million, Mexico City is a cultural capital on equal footing with other major powerhouses such as Paris, New York and London. Although safety can be an issue in certain parts of Mexico, Mexico City is safe in the areas where most travelers will visit. Personally, I felt safer there while perusing the city’s many attributes – covering approximately 30-miles on foot over a four-day period – than I have in recent years in several American cities.

The Bed

Without doubt one of the toniest areas of Mexico City is Polanco in the Miguel Hidalgo borough. Replete with several embassies, high-end shopping and fine restaurants and bars, Casa Polanco – one of the Leading Hotels of the World – is perfectly situated in the heart of this borough facing the flourishing Parque Abraham Lincoln.

Set in a 1940’s Spanish Revival/New California style historic structure, Casa Polanco underwent a four-year restoration headed by architect extraordinaire Claudio Gantous and opened in June 2022. In addition to the meticulous restoration, a new contemporary wing was so skillfully added to house the gym, massage studio and 10 of the hotel’s 19 rooms and suites, that the transition is virtually seamless.

Interiors were designed by CASA M+M in a striking yet soothing modern art deco style. From the moment of arrival and as soon as the wrought iron gate was opened, I was told, “Welcome home.” That refrain would repeat every time I returned to Casa Polanco, resulting in a calming serenity and providing a sense of staying at the elegant urban oasis of an adoring and adored, well-heeled uncle.

Upon arrival my bags were whisked away and I was seated in the stylish Library then handed a cool towel, a glass of sparkling wine and some snacks. Moments later I was shown to my spacious Premier Park View room with a glorious 80-square foot balcony overlooking Parque Lincoln where I enjoyed morning coffees. Gleaming hardwood floors, large sisal rug, and cool palette, pinstriped wallpaper set a perfect tone. A tweed upholstered bedframe, houndstooth club chairs, marble-topped tables and long acrylic working desk made classy comfort tantamount.

Speaking of comfort, in addition to a Nespresso machine,  included is a “maxi” bar containing some of the most unusual and wonderful sweet and savory snacks I’ve encountered anywhere. Think  minimal calorie gluten-free chocolate wafers, olive oil chips, avocado chips, paprika chips, roasted pistachios, blueberries with Matcha, and sugar-free chocolate covered hazelnuts. There was also fresh fruit, dried mango and fresh baked cookies. This was complimented by a stocked minibar.

The bathroom had gorgeous gray-and-white slab marble floors and walls, and in the walk-in shower – brilliantly engineered with water controls at the entry way – ribbed marble flooring. Both rain and European showerheads were complimented by environmentally friendly amenities.

Five e-bikes are available for guest use, and the gym has a Technogym treadmill, spinner, full body weight machine, free weights, jump ropes and yoga mats, all to use with a  view of Parque Lincoln. Across one of Casa Polanco’s many relaxing outdoor patios, is the massage studio where I had an excellent treatment late one afternoon when summer rain happily altered my plans.

Food & Drink Matters

Breakfasts at Casa Polanco’s airy and light filled La Veranda include local delights, such as chilaquiles and huevos rancheros, but also perfectly prepared continental items such as Belgian waffles, eggs Benedict and avocado toast. Everything  was so delicious that one evening I had grilled salmon tacos sent to my room while working to enjoy on the balcony.

Although you likely won’t have room for lunch, the street food scene here is thriving, and options abound. However, if you’re seeking plant-based burgers, brats or sandwiches, check out Goy’s. For Biscoff addicts – and you know who you are – Mexico City’s Krispy Kreme shops currently carry creamy Biscoff milkshakes. Gelato fans, including those looking for vegan and dairy-free products, will want to try Aldo’s.

If you only go to one bar in Mexico City, it should be the Carlotta Reforma Sky Bar located on the 38th floor of the Ritz-Carlton. Named after the wife of Mexico’s second Emperor Maximilian I, the Sky Bar has eye-watering views capturing the Paseo de la Reforma and adjacent gardens all the way to Chapultepec Castle that was once Maximilian and Carlotta’s official residence.

However, as it’s likely impossible to go to only one bar, another great spot is Il Becco Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel where mixologists create perhaps Mexico’s best Negroni. The atmosphere was so convivial we decided to stay for dinner. What a great decision. A three-way tie ensued for first place: divinely creamy burrata and pomodoro salad, followed by roasted beetroot salad with goat cheese, and a riso fritto – fried sticky rice with toro. The perfect ending was a fabulous tiramisu.

Another evening brought us to Restaurant Aúna. Here Chef Jorge Vallejo delights diners with creations made from the freshest local ingredients. The Jerusalem artichoke and praline pecan salad was a great starter while the grilled tomato and radish Fattoush exploded with flavor. The shishito peppered flat iron was flavorful and tender. The meal ended with a velvety sheep’s cheesecake complimented by mamey sapote ice cream.

The Finds

Parque Lincoln was named after our 16th president as he vehemently opposed the U.S. Invasion of Mexico. In this beautiful exactly one-mile circumference park with an aviary and sculpture garden are statues of both Lincoln – gifted in 1966 by President Lyndon Johnson – and Martin Luther King, Jr. The only issue with my daily four-mile ritual here was the risk of whiplash given all the incredible architecture surrounding the park, not to mention delectable aromas wafting from street vendors selling freshly prepared breakfast tacos, grilled meat sandwiches and warm churros.

At the park’s east end is Teatro Angela Peralta with visiting performances. On Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 6pm to 7pm, adults can learn Polynesian dance with the Hina’aro Mana’o-’ore-hia dance school. If boot camp is more your jam, consider Barbie Fitness Boot Camp pop-up that meets in the park’s center at 8am.

Those in need of high-end retail therapy can head to Avenida Presidente Masaryk where one will find the usual gamut: Gucci, Ferragamo, Fendi and other friends. For artisanal home goods, Onora has an excellent collection of glazed ceramic vases and candelabra from Michoacán and Ensemble Artesano has traditional items designed with a modern twist.

Those seeking truly inspired photographic art should head to Raconteur Gallery where Fernando Salazar’s ethereally creative pieces will have you rearranging your home’s collection to accommodate pieces of this wonderful artist. Xinú Perfumes ­– which provides Casa Polanco’s amenities – has an unusually beautiful showroom where creativity and beauty marry sensory perception.

In Bosque de Chapultepec, a 1,700-acre park just off Paseo de la Reforma, one can easily spend two full days. At its center is Chapultepec Lake where paddle boats can be rented. There’s also a zoological section, botanical gardens, a picturesque Korean Pavilion, the Tamayo Contemporary Art Museum and the historic Chapultepec Castle and museum. The National Archeology Museum is also here where visitors can see the 15th century, 25-ton, massive carved basalt Sun Stone, once incorrectly identified as the Aztec calendar.  

Another two days can easily be spent Mexico City’s historic center, also known as Zócalo. Replete with historic, cultural and religious sites, a good starting point is the breathtaking Belle Arts Palace. Make sure and go upstairs to be reminded of Diego Rivera’s talents. Nearby, the stone ruins of Templo Mayor, the Metropolitan Cathedral, Plaza de la Constitución and Palacio Postal – arguably one of the world’s most beautiful post offices in a wild mélange of architecture – await discovery. Calle Tacuba with several museums, galleries, and the famous Café Tacuba, is a street so captivating, you know you’ll be back.

The Lesson Learned

Mexico City is a vibrant, cosmopolitan, interesting city that deserves your attention, whether for a long weekend or a week to take a deeper dive into all that’s on offer. Though a great walking city to explore, happily there are also plenty of Ubers, Lyfts and taxis. Staying at Casa Polanco will not only easily become your very favorite hotel, but it also truly represents the very best of what Mexico City has become: stylish, classy and seriously cool.

Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications around the world, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, The Vancouver Courier, The Daily Journal and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others. She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.

ncG1vNJzZmiln6OyurXNnGWcp51ksKmt0aZksJ2UqHqxrc2amqGdXZbBbrnEsaCcp12YtrXF0maamquRYr2wuMCnmqhn